Sep 18

DLG Taranis setup

For some it is a huge task to program your Taranis radio. A DLG has some specific features that can be tricky so the best option is to search for at RCgroups for a suitable guide. Didn’t take long to find a specific program for my 3 channel DLG, 2 ailerons and elevator. Now you think 3 channels cannot be that hard – you are correct unless you count in all flaps, breaks and mixes for different flightmodes – all depending on flight conditions.

Behrens, the author of the post linked above made it easy for us. A step by step guide with lots of features.

I choose to share his post in a big quote:

Taranis Setup for Rudderless DLG

This is a template model designed to easily setup a DLG model and have a nice set of features readily available. You may copy, modify or just seek inspiration as you please. Any model in Taranis is likely to undergo several improvements. I’d be happy to hear your suggestions.

It’s assumed that SF has been swapped by a spring loaded switch (Could be SH – no soldering needed).

I take no responsibility for damages caused by using this model!

Servo Setup Mode – An easy way to bypass all mixes and just get the servo limits/centering/inversion set up correctly.
Flight modes (Launch, Speed, Cruise, Thermal) – In each mode you can adjust the flaperon and elevator independently. No need to play around in the mixes menu – use trim buttons instead!
Alarms – Get a warning if you are about to launch and everything isn’t ready
Countdown – A simple 10:03 working time countdown
Stopwatch – Strangely enough the most complex part of this model
Differentiation – Adjust during flight
Snapflap and Flap Compensation – for a more smooth flight

1) Receiver Binding and servo connection
Bind your receiver and connect the servos like this:
CH1: Left Aileron
CH2: Elevator
CH3: Right Aileron

2) Servo Setup Mode
When you run the model it defaults the mode to Servo Setup Mode. All mixes and stick inputs are disabled. All servos are controlled by SB. Default limits are -30, 0, 30. A very conservative starting point that will not cause binding unless your mechanical setup is skewed.

Move SB to Up position. All control surfaces should move up. Enter the radio’s “SERVOS” menu and adjust the Invert settings as needed.

Now for each channel, adjust Upper and lower limits in the “SERVOS” Menu (move SB to down position for lower limits).

When done, set SB to center position and adjust the neutral position to no throw.

Once this is done we need to leave Servo Setup Mode. This is done in “GLOBAL VARIABLES” menu. Locate “GV5 Servo”. For FM0 change value from 1 to 0. At this point the sticks start to control the servos.

3) Flight Modes
As mentioned there are 4 flight modes. In each mode you can control the flaperon effect with the Throttle Trim button. You can also set elevator trim for each mode using elevator trim button.

To enter the different flight modes:
Launch: Pull SF. When entering Launch mode all other settings (Brake and other flight modes settings) are canceled. No need to worry about your settings when launching. Launch is associated with the stopwatch. Press SF a few times and you will see how it works. Simple and efficient.

Speed, Cruise and Thermal: Selected by SB when not in launch mode. Again, use throttle trim and elevator trim.

4) Other settings in flight
Your differentiation is a global setting which can be adjusted by rudder trim. Both positive and negative values can be applied

Aileron trim is also a global setting. Guess which button to use.

5) Advanced settings
Snapflap and Flap Compensation can be adjusted in the “MIXER” menu (CH15 line 3 and CH11 line 2).

Minimum battery voltage during launch is set to prevent that you throw your model before turning on receiver power.

It requires telemetry and voltage sensor (often built-in to FrSky receivers). The voltage is se in the “CUSTOM SWITCHES” menu on CS7.

Dual Rate and Expo is set in the “STICKS” menu as usual.

You will notice one of two sounds when launching. One is an indication that everything is fine. The other indicates that something is wrong. It can be:
a) Brake is on. It gets canceled by Launch mode. But you should remove brake before leaving Launch Mode.
b) Flight mode is Thermal. Similar to a)
c) We are not receiving A1 receiver voltage signal. Your receiver may be turned off.

I have an altimeter connected to my models. Moving SE will read out your altitude. Make sure to disconnect altimeter during competition.


Rudderless DLG template

Follow the steps carefully and aim for throws specific to your DLG and you have a good start. I had to go back several times to adjust throws.

I think my setup is ready for competition but that is not my goal, I fly DLG for fun and relaxation.

Sep 08

Don’t worry

HI! Don’t worry! Things are happening behind the scenes but you don’t know about it 🙂

It seems that I do not fly as much as I used to – well, on the personal agenda it dropped a bit due to bad weather most of the time, but for other areas things are moving along.
To start I am about to move to a brand new house. They didn’t even started digging for the foundations yet so things are going to be hectic with selling the current house and such.
In the new house I will have better areas to work with my RC-things, a proper workshop for instance will do huge difference to me as the current one is a shed/storage.

Plans are moving along with my UAV-planes as well. Since purchasing yet another Skywalker I have been planning for best uses of it. This one will be purely dedicated SAR-missions and the other one will be dedicated Aerial photo /mapping.
For both I will use the Taranis radio with a 433Mhz link.

Cameras for different needs can be mounted on both of them with a modular design features. For aerial photos I will use the Canon Powershoot SX260. I can of course mount a Gopro or similar HD-camera and best of all, I can also mount thermal cameras for SAR-missions.

My goal for this will be to relocate to new house (by December), get the workshop done and the office inside as well as lots of things happen by the computer and the desk.
Then I will proceed the builds on my planes to get them ready for testing by the end of spring. I don’t thing I have to do the same rigorous testings as I did with my 1st Skywalker or with the Bixler1 as they were done to test lots of equipment. The new planes will use the same equipment’s so it is things I know work.

Anyway….Autumn is getting closer and closer, today was below +10 degrees celsius in the morning. Soon the leaves will turn fiery red/orange and yellow all over and it is time to go out and shoot some videos with the 250 Quad.

CU soon

Jul 02


I met up with one of the designers/builders/creators of the Altivolus.

Purchased a 2nd hand version (numbered #1) and went back home. Once home (it was a 3.5 hour drive single way) I started to configure my programming in the Taranis.

A bit later than expected I was finished so I went out at 22:00 -ish and had a go. All feels good.

A few days later I finished the programming and now I have all flaperons set up for various flight modes

Launch, Glide, Thermal, Speed.

Everything is totally independent so I can adjust left or right flaps or elevator at will.

Now If I could fit the altimeter inside…

Jun 24

This summer…

Rainy and windy is what it is….not the best summer so fat.

A week ago I went out flying the Natrix DLG and the ELF DLG and it was quite cool – until I totally wrecked the Natrix.

I got a good throw , good feeling and all and it went up in a nice angle. When I tried to level out nothing happened – it was totally unresponsive to my inputs.
The plane looped back and went hard into the ground broke the fuselage in 2 pieces and tore the fin again.


Picking up the pieces walking the shame back to the car start tossing the ELF instead. While doing a couple of throws I was thinking what went wrong in the Natrix – I suspect loss of power so if the battery or the receiver was loose inside it might be disconnected. Hard to tell – as they were both loose after the hard impact.

The wing is fairly intact so I will keep it and might try to fit it to another DLG fuselage. The electronics also seems fine. 2 Dymond D60 in the wing and a D47 for elevator. The receiver is OK as well as the LIPO and the altimeter.

I went searching for a 2nd hand replacement for the Natrix and A few hours I had a message from kajakmannen on Facebook. 1 Altivolus will be mine on Thursday.

The Altivolus is top-notch DLG – a true competition model.

Apr 23

2X LKTR250 at Kohagen

Video not available

I have been flying with markusb in a meadow near his house. I have been flying the LKTR250 a lot but I didn’t make any videos from the flights.

Here is a video from the latest flight with markusb.

Mar 02


More updates on the Skywalker.

The Skywalker came with NTM PRop Drive Series 35-36A 1400Kv / 550W

This motor will swing a 9*6 Graupner CAM folding (same as my old Skywalker) but with a new hub as this motor has a larger axle diameter. (I got  a new hub from a friend)

This motor is good for 4S as opposed to my old Turnigy 35-36 1450Kv motor that was only good for 2-3S

The ESC (again, same as the old Skywalker) is good for 3-4S so it can handle the load.
It is an OPTO version so an external BEC is required to feed servos and stuff on 5Volts
To feed 5volts I have a Castle Creation 10A UBEC – more than enough.

This fuselage is already glued together and the tail servos are installed (Hitech’s) and this makes it a bit harder to plan the layout.

I have some navigation-lights I will include, all wires needs extensions…


Some things I’m considering…APM 1.0 is what I have in my Bixler1 – how about I use this in the Skywalker

(to be honest – how much will I use the Bixler1 when I have the Skywalker?)

I have a camera ready to be mounted facing down…A Canon running CHDK for interval photos.

I do need to buy 4S LIPO’s to power the motor. The video will be connected to 3S as well as the UBEC so they are separated to avoid interference’s and to add some failsafe if the ESC burns out.


How about an Orange LRS receiver in this? I have 1 spare…
1.3 or 5.8 for video?
Don’t know – I will go for modularity i.e lets me choose what I want.

Some servos to go….I have a bunch of Turnigy MG servos ready to be mounted in the wing.

Feb 17

News in the hangar

Sorry for not being so active! I have been busy and the flying times has been very limited 2014 in total.

To start off I sold the Bixler2 to a friend who needs an FPV plane.

I purchased a 2nd hand Skywalker…It is in fact never assembled and still brand new. This plane will be an FPV rig with waypoint navigation – just like my Bixler1 with APM(1.0)

Last time I flew my Skywalker I used EagleTree and I was very pleased with them.
For this rig I will most likely use an APM (Pixhawk?) and It will most likely have multiple camera choices on board.

I also purchased a 2nd hand ELF (1 meter DLG) built by Vladimir. A great little DLG, lighter than my Hobbyking DLG and equipped with 2 Dymond-47’s

Now I might strip the HK-version from the voltage step-up…


For FPV I use the Skyzone FPV goggles with 2 Clovers mounted (lhcp and rhcp) or 1 clover and a biquad.

I have sold some 450 quad parts and I might continue do so…lack of time and interests I suppose.

Oct 20

LKTR250 aluminium arms

Here are all parts for my LKTR250 Quad. I decided to make new arms from 10*10mm aluminium instead of 3d printed ones. I took measures from the 3d printed arms and used the same hole spacing. This way I can choose between them 2. THe aluminium arms have 2 holes so I can extend the arms 8mm if I want to. As the aluminium arms only have 1mm material I had to shorten all 8 screws that holds the motors in place. All wires are long enough between motors and ESC’s. NExt up is to add 2 flimsy wires that will power a piece of LED-strip front and rear.


LKTR250 parts

LKTR250 parts


LKTR250 parts

LKTR250 parts

Sep 30

Natrix F3K new heights

This is todays altimeters from my Natrix F3K (DLG) A new personal best with 52 meters.



Sep 17

Gopro Hero 3 Black – Teardown

I have to admit that the LKTR250 frame and my GoPro Hero3 black camera are not quite compatible. The frame is a bit narrow and the GoPro has to be the worst camera in the world regarding aerodynamics as it has the largest surface facing forward. Imagine a GoPro Hero with the lens on the side like a Mobius, Preferably lying down flat on the belly (battery hatch) Then it would be the best of 2 worlds.

When you are using the GoPro for FPV you also use the USB-port on the side to access video & audio and if you want to 5 Volts to charge the camera on the go as well, all readily accessible in 1 handy port – ready for a bladestrike!

On my version of LKTR250 I use 3dprinted arms from the Hovership MHQ.

It fits nicely and works great with the 5*3 props I use – until u crash…the LKTR-frame has isolated top/bottom ie dirty and clean frame and the rubber bobbins can flex so much that the propeller easily strike the USB connector for your TV-out. I was suspicious when I noticed a few dents on the propeller looking exactly like my USB-connector…

Anyway…at the latest joint flight with my friend MarkusB I flew low and lost FPV-link due to rocks and stuff on the ground forcing me to either hang on or drop throttle to land promptly, I choose to drop throttle and engage LOMA (lost model alarm)

When I go get the Quad I noticed massive dents in the propeller…the USB connector is loose inside the camera – DANG. but video still works…so did charging so no broken wires or traces on the PCB.


How do we proceed to rescue the camera? We visit and their GoPro Hero3 Teardown

Looking at the pictures we can now disassemble the camera quite easy with some cellphone repair tools and most important the Torx #4.

5 minutes later the camera is opened up so we can access the damaged USB connector and yes – It has come loose on all 4 corners. the solderpads for the metal casing(groundplane) are broken away from the PCB – the solders to all wires are intact!

This means the solderpads for the casing came off the PCB with the connector…

No sweat – we fix this with some 15 minutes epoxy as there is plenty of room for some glue to hold on to so I apply with a needle and a BBQ-sqewer that I shaped flat in the tip.


Finally…here are some images showing the glue applied over, under and on the sides of the metal casing to give extra support.

GoPro hero 3 usb connector

GoPro hero 3 usb connector

GoPro hero 3 usb connector

GoPro hero 3 usb connector

GoPro hero 3 usb connector

GoPro hero 3 usb connector



Now I really hope this will hold up. I will most likely redesign the center plates to make the LKTR250 more GoPro friendly – widen it a bit and to make sure I do not get bladestrike again – use longer arms to get more clearance.


In the meantime when being grounded from LKTR250 FPV flights – I fly the Natrix DLG. In far from perfect conditions (very windy) I threw it 43 meters up but the wind was so strong I had to loop back. I hope there is less wind during my lunchbreaks this week…